We compared 40 trap bars in 21 quality aspects and chose 5 that offer the best bounce for the ounce.
And it was not easy.
It took every bit of my 2-decade experience buying these for my gym and using them with my clients.
We also kept it short and sweet.
The recommendations are few and concise but every market segment is represented – from cheap units, over the classics (like Rogue) to overbuilt premium bars like the Kabuki.
Bottom line…
Whatever your budget, taste, or need, it’s all here…backed by data, testing, personal experiences, and expert opinions.
We test and recommend other home gym stuff in guides similar to this. You might be interested to see our squat-rack recommendations, and or top-rated knee sleeves to push you beyond that squatting PB.
Editor’s note: This guide was last updated in June 2024. We cut down the number of picks from 9 to 5, to make it all simpler and more concise.
We also tweaked the rating in favor of value, which shot the cheaper bars to higher spots. A case in point is the CAP Combo – it’s now ranked higher than Kabuki because it’s more attainable for home gyms.
Compare the best trap bars
Best for | Overall | Budget | Premium | Rogue | Rackable |
Rating (*) | |||||
Quality | 88% | 70% | 96% | 90% | 85% |
Versatility | 89% | 68% | 90% | 83% | 83% |
Brand & reputation | 89% | 78% | 95% | 91% | 82% |
Price | 87% | 95% | 45% | 74% | 87% |
Bushing/ bearing | Bushings & Snap Rings | None | None | None | None |
Bar diameter (mm) | 25 | 25 | 25.5 | 34 | 32 |
Length (") | 59 | 56 | 77 | 88.5 | 85.5 |
Loadable sleeve length (") | 9.7 | 9 | 17 | 16 | 16 |
Knurl | Medium | Medium | Medium | Medium | Medium - Diamond Texture |
Knurl Marks | N/A | N/A | N/A | N/A | N/A |
Shaft coating | Black Oxide | Black Powder Coat/Chrome | Semi-Glass Powder Coat | Black Powder Coat | Black Powder Coat |
Sleeve coating | White Zinc | Black Powder Coat/Chrome | Clear Zinc | Black Powder Coat | Black Powder Coat |
Weight capacity (lbs) | 700 | 750 | 1500 | 1000 | 800 |
Rackable? | No | No | No | No | Yes |
Warranty | Lifetime | 5 years | Lifetime | Lifetime | 1-year |
Bar weight (lbs) | 47 | 52 | 66 | 60 | 60 |
Sleeve size (") | 1.9 | 1.9 | 2 | 1.9 | 1.9 |
Price | $$$ | $ | $$$$$ | $$$$ | $$$ |
Our testing and selection process
We always use a 5 step process in our reviews:
- We start as the buyer – most of our team have bought at least a few trap bars before. As mentioned earlier, I own an 8,000 sq ft gym with dozens upon dozens of bars.
- We do a ton of research – we collect information on as many trap bars as possible and insert it into a spreadsheet.
- We rate each trap bar using our exclusive ‘weighted’ rating system. You can learn more about this in the section below.
- We use data to decide our top picks rather than personal biases toward brands.
- We get our hands on as many of the top picks as possible. Our community is great at helping with this.
You can read more about this process in our review guidelines.
We came at the task from the position of a buyer.
We defined, weighed, and tweaked the factors and ratings until they were fair, balanced, and above all, based on data over opinion.
Below is a rundown of what we looked at.
- Type of steel used (3%) – ideally, we’d rate the steel quality by comparing the yield and tensile strengths. That’s what we do with regular barbells.
It wasn’t possible here because it’s almost never listed.
Even brands famous for specs precision (like Rogue) don’t have it.
We put some pieces of the puzzle together based on experience, but we had little data still. Hence the low gravity of 3%
- SCH of the steel (6%) – nominal thickness of the steel profiles (if it’s not solid).
SCH stands for “schedule of the pipe” – the thickness of the walls.
Again, it’s not always available so we have to use experience and do some math, mainly based on the weight and listed capacity.
For example, Rogue TB-2 uses SCH 80 pipes for the sleeves (approx. 0.18 “ thick). Titan V3 has a similar geometry and weighs the same, so it’s safe to assume they also use SCH 80 steel.
- Capacity (5%) – this is higher gravity than we typically use for barbells because we have less data in other categories.
We might adjust it based on our experience with the brands and how accurate their specs have proven to be over the years (read: whether they have a track record of lying).
We also might assume it is for internal use when it’s not listed (like with Rogue).
- Finishes and coats (5%) – you typically get powder coats in the upper echelon and low-grade chrome or paint in the lower.
Also, not all powder coats are created equal – for example, I know from experience that Rogue’s powder is better than BOS’ or Titan’s.
- Welds (4%) – you want clean welds with as little extra material.
- Knurling uniformity and termination (4%) – doesn’t rate the knurling aggressiveness (that’s in the versatility section) but how well it’s executed.
- Attention to detail (3%) – awards extra points to the finely crafted hex bars – to create separation between the likes of Kabuki or Eleiko from CAP or Fringe.
- Sleeve texture and finish (3%) – looks to award sleeve surfaces that are easier to load and will chip less, like smooth hard chrome sleeves over powder coat.
- Open vs. closed designs (6%) – open hex bars are the way of the future, and the ratings reflect that. They’re more versatile because they allow you to perform farmer’s walks and presses, both overhead and lying.
Some outliers like Eleiko Öppen, combine the open design with a round profile, which allows you to use the hex as a cambered bar.
Also, open designs make the loading more convenient because you don’t have to rack the bar. Big plus.
- Cage width (5%) – the bigger you are, the more difference the front-to-back width will make. You want to think about the lift, not about hitting your knees.
My 2 rules of thumb for bigger guys are:
1. The width of the cage should be 27mm or greater.
2. The ratio between width and handle distance should ideally be 1.1 to 1.2.
I call that the WDH ratio. For example, TB-2 is right in the middle of that range (1.14) and CAP is way outside. - Handles (5%) – this rating is weighed to achieve 2 things:
1. Separate the flat bars (with one pair of handles, like the TB-1) from the two-handled designs. We award the latter because the high handles allow for more weight and greater stimulation. It’s also a plus if you’re squatting around a back injury.
2. Separate the fixed-handle hexes from the adjustable ones – i.e. ones that offer multiple handle widths and thicknesses (like the Kabuki).
If you can afford it, absolutely go for multiple handles. It will allow you to find the width and height that works for you and mix it up with grip position and thickness.
And it doesn’t have to be Kabuki, you can save at least 2 Benjamins by going with something like the REP Open Trap. - Knurling (2%) – a minor versatility factor that gives a slight edge to the medium-to-aggressive knurls.
- Sleeve length (2%) – an overhyped factor, if you ask me…expect in 2 extremes:
1. You’re in a tight space and don’t have the room for a full-sized trap bar.
2. You lift heavy and use bumper plates – a rare combo that calls for extra long sleeves.
Rates the specific product and the brand’s track record of quality products and customer service excellence.
To be specific:
- User ratings of the hex bar (5%) – we pool data and talk to people who have actually used the bar, even when we have it. We weigh the data if it’s not coming from a third-party source but the website of the maker.
- Guarantees and warranties (2%) – we look at the terms and how efficiently they’re honored.
- Customer service (2%) – we look at issue resolution and speed of responses, both pre and post-purchase. Sometimes, this means mystery shopping for hex bars.
We always aim to find value because exercise doesn’t have to be expensive, that’s one of our core principles.
However, it can be expensive if you want to pamper yourself.
That’s why we balance the factors listed above with the price of the trap bars.
The key takeaway for most people: if you’re looking for value, go for a trap bar that costs $200-350.
Find the perfect trap bar for you
Overall | Budget | Premium | Rogue | Rackable
1. Best trap bar overall – Bells of Steel 3.0
*BOS – Bells of Steel
The third version of the BOS trap is as good as some that cost 2-3 more…better, in some ways.
Quality (33%)
Versatility (15%)
Reputation & reviews (12%)
Value for money (40%)
Main praises – what I like
- I love how the rotating sleeves feel – I had my doubts about this but the rotation does make for a calmer lift. More importantly, it doesn’t make the bar jittery (which was my fear because it’s an open design).
- The jack stands with protective rubber – in my mind, this is a three-fold benefit.
#1 – it protects your floors or platform.
#2 – it makes life easier when it comes to (off) loading.
#3 – it shows a customer-oriented approach to design.
It might sound like a cliche but hear me out…. It’s a specific thing – it adds a layer of confidence in how the rest of the bar is made… Especially the parts you don’t see.
And that’s huge!
I’ve always felt the BOS guys had that extra touch, which you don’t see with other budget brands.
Kudos. - I like the finish – the Zinc looks clean and feels resistant. It’s been 2 and a half years now since I first analyzed and talked about it on this page. It seems to be standing the test of time.
- I feel the geometry is a massive leap compared to the 2nd version – balancing an open cage and rotating sleeves is a problem.
A real problem…
You can easily end up with a bouncy feel – I’ve seen hex bars crash and burn over the years for this reason alone.
BOS seem to have engineered their way around it – I’d say mostly by shortening the sleeves and making the cage extra rigid.
Main grievances – what could be better
- Short sleeves – I can see this being a problem for people who lift heavy and use bumper plates.
If that’s you, do the math – an average bumper 45-lb plate is about 3 inches thick, so the BOS 3.0 would fit 3 of those per side.
Pros
- Solid bang for your buck – you’ll pay much less for similar features.
- Open-ended design is more versatile – allows you to perform exercises beyond the deadlift – and many more. Not unique to this bar, but you rarely see it executed well in this price range.
- Excellent coating – your bar will last longer with little to no chipping or change.
- Rotating sleeves – makes the motion smoother and easier on your wrists.
- Backed by a lifetime warranty – gives you peace of mind and eliminates buyer’s remorse.
Cons
- Short sleeves (9.7 inches) – if you lift heavy or use bumper plates, this probably isn’t the bar for you.
- Has some whip to it – an open-ended design and a 0.9” thick frame will give you some whip on those heavier lifts.
- The stand is not as robust as in some more expensive bars – the “built-in jack” is really a glorified stand and is not as stable as the heftier one (like the ones we’ll see in Kabuki and Eleiko).
If you’re OK with the open cage and shorter sleeves, the value of the BOS 3.0 is hard to beat.
It’s compact, cheap, and thoughtfully engineered.
How it fares against the main competitors (h3)
Well, it costs 50 bucks less than Titan’s rackable hex.
It wins that face-off because the spinning sleeves do make a difference in lift smoothness.
It’s also much smaller, which is a massive plus for smaller home gyms, and comes with a lifetime warranty.
REP’s Open Trap Bar is more intricate (and versatile) because of the handle options and rackabillity, but it costs about $100 more and features classic sleeves (long and fixed).
It comes close but doesn’t match the value.
Bells of Steel 3.0 found its way to the top (and with a hefty margin of almost two points) for three main reasons:
- Low price point
- Superior finish
- Rotating sleeves
Let me explain.
It’s conservatively priced but not cheaply made. It means it’s a value bar that does most things just as well as bars that cost twice as much. I’ll get into which things are those in a moment.
Superior coating
The coating of the Bells of Steel 3.0 is on par with the best of them. The shaft is black Zinc, and the sleeves are silver Zinc.
In terms of resistance, Zinc is only second to stainless steel and cerakote, and we have no bars in the TOP 50 finished with either of the two.
Now, that’s impressive!
Mentioning rotating sleeves might raise some old-school eyebrows. Again, it’s THE ONLY bar in the top 50 whose sleeves rotate.
To be clear, I’m not saying that rotating sleeves on a trap bar are crucial or as important as they are on, say, a curl bar.
They’re not as important because there’s no snatching. That means there’s little momentum or sudden acceleration in the movement. BUT! It’s a ‘nice-to-have’ – the rotational momentum in plates across a high rep, fast-paced set means you could cause a potential injury. Rotating sleeves help to offset this risk.
With that said, the operative term here is “best.”
We’re looking for the BEST trap bar for MOST people.
And rotating sleeves make for a smoother movement.
Bottom line
Bells of Steel does it all, does it well, and does it at a much lower price point.
It’s a massive improvement over the second version of the bar, which featured an enclosed design.
The sleeves could be longer, but that would be a different bar. As Andrew Ponsler (Bells of Steel owner) explains, they intentionally made the sleeves shorter to lower the shipping cost.
Note: This is not the bar for you if you’re deadlifting over 650 lbs, the sleeves are too short. If you’re lifting 700+, you’ll want to look at Kabuki (runner-up) among the open designs and Rogue TB-2 (ranked 4) among the classic designs.
The sleeves are short for a reason
If the sleeves were any longer, the bar would be shipped as an oversized item and that alone would add $100 to the cost.
That alone means the bar would cost 30-40% more even if manufacturing costs remain the same or change minimally.
With that said, Bells of Steel has been sending out teasers of version 4.0 that would feature longer sleeves (like the short video below), but with the pricing in mind, we don’t see it beating the 3.0 in our scores. But time will tell.
Specs sheet
Weight capacity | 700 |
Overall length | 59 |
Loadable sleeve length | 9.7 |
Shaft finish | Black Zinc |
Sleeve finish | Silver Zinc |
2. Best budget trap bar – CAP Olympic Trap Bar
For the conservative buyer who’s 5’8” or taller, this bar is a good way to save money without significant functionality compromises.
Quality (33%)
Versatility (15%)
Reputation & reviews (12%)
Value for money (40%)
Main praises – what I like
- In-hand, it feels natural, and easy on the shoulders – and geometry is a common problem with hex bars in this price range.
- Positioning on lift start – a good hex bar will “force” you to initiate with the front foot portion planted. This CAP does that.
Main grievances – what could be better
- Handle distance might be too great for smaller frames – I can say from experience that 25 inches between handles might be too much for smaller guys and most gals.
To be precise, I’d say anyone under 5’7” will find themselves reaching out. That stresses the shoulders, increases injury risks, and defeats the purpose of a trap bar.
Pros
- Affordable – currently the second most budget-friendly bar on the list.
- Solid zinc finish – when I say this, I’m referring to the zinc-coated version that costs a peg more but will chip much less.
- Good knurling – allows for a good grip.
- Money-back guarantee – this means a lot when getting a bar on the cheap. There’s comfort in knowing you can return it.
Cons
- Longevity issues – It might bend if used at loading capacity. The bar is listed for 750 lbs max load, but I’ve seen one too many reports of it bending when used at the upper limit for prolonged periods.
- Shipping and packaging issues – you might receive a chipped, dinged bar.
- Quality and tolerances control – there’s a chance you’ll get a bar that doesn’t fit Olympic plates. I’ve seen reports of people sanding the sleeves to make them fit.
CAP Combo is the cheapest trap bar I know that has no significant flaws.
For reference, a similar trap bar from Rogue will set you back at least 150 bucks…and that buys a lot of Creatine.
The main difference between the two will be the finish.
CAP will chip and flake with time, which is to be expected in this price range.
Here’s the crux – even the more expensive bars like Rogue TB-2 or Kabuki have a powder-coat finish, that’s also not the most resistant.
So, it’s not like we’re comparing CAP’s chrome to stainless steel.
The Cap hex bar is one of the most popular ones out there.
It’s not perfect, but it’s great value for those looking for a classic bar that just gets on with it. There’s nothing pretentious about it.
Nor should you expect fancy at this price range.
I’d say that the knurling on the raised handles is on the passive side, while the flush (level) handles are medium. What surprised me is how well the knurling maintains its ‘bite’ over time.
Again, not a given at this price.
The geometry is good, in three main aspects:
- It offers enough space in the “cage,” even for those on the bigger side.
- The dual handles are well-spaced at 25 inches, which is the sweet spot for most.
- At 10 inches, the sleeves are long enough for 90% of lifters using Olympic plates.
You won’t be breaking any records with this one, but it’s a good bar that just gets on with it.
Specs sheet
Weight capacity | 750 |
Overall length | 56 |
Loadable sleeve length | 10 |
Shaft finish | Zinc |
Sleeve finish | Zinc |
3. Premium pick – Kabuki Trap Bar
All the noise about distances, finishes, and capacities quiets down and becomes moot if you can afford this Kabuki.
Quality (33%)
Versatility (15%)
Reputation & reviews (12%)
Value for money (40%)
Main praises – what I like
- I love the adjustability of the handles – it eliminates THE main dilemma of choosing the right trap bar for your build.
- It’s the coolest-looking trap bar on the market – I’m loving the semi-gloss and chrome combo.
Main grievances – what could be better
- I’d add some protection to the jacks, like UHMW housing.
- You could argue that round tubing would make it more versatile because you could do cambered bar squats.
(Boy, it feels weird offering engineering tips to Chris Duffin).
Pros
- High weight capacity of 1500 lbs – allows you to pack more weight on and gives you more confidence at lower weights.
- Superior knurling – while you might see some wear of the knurling in subpar bars, Kabuki knurling is practically indestructible.
- High-end materials and attention to detail – everything about a Kabuki bar feels premium.
- Just the right amount of whip – you’ll lift slightly more and work on your form in the process.
- Long sleeves (17 inches) – even with bumper plates, this will comfortably fit enough weight for most people.
- Swappable grips – you can choose the grip thickness that feels good for you.
- Well-balanced open design – along with the robust frame, the weighted balance is what makes Kabuki more stable in complex movements like farmer’s walk.
- Good finish of the sleeves – clear Zinc will not chip or flake.
Cons
- Expensive – costs much more than an average trap bar.
- Swappable handles cost extra – again, this means you’ll pay more.
- Square tubing – not a CON per se, but you won’t be using this as a cambered squat bar as you would Eleiko.
Kabuki’s is the coolest trap bar on the market, bar none.
The only direct competitor is the Eleiko Öppen, which costs about 100 bucks more.
I prefer the Kabuki, for one main reason – it’s easier to prop up and load/unload…courtesy of the rounded jacks.
If they let me into a room full of trap bars and tell me that I can choose one for free, this is the bar I’d go for.
It’s the most complete trap bar out there, and it’s not even close. Knowing what I know about Kabuki’s approach to making bars, it comes as no surprise – the amount of research and time that goes into developing a Kabuki bar is, well, for lack of a better word, INSANE.
It’s insane in the best possible sense of the word.
The question you have to ask yourself is whether or not your lifting requires such precision-engineered bars. If it doesn’t, perhaps spend your money on another bar.
The one unique thing about Kabuki is the adjustable grip – both in handle thickness and spacing. The bar comes with a standard handle bracket width of 25 inches and 29 mm thick handles (1.141″).
Optional extra grips
You can go thicker to 1.5 or 2 (Kabuki calls the latter “love handles”), and you can go thinner, down to 1-inch grips. You can also choose narrower or wider bracket handles, 23 and 27 inches, respectively.
That would bring your total bill to over 1K. For most people, that’s too expensive for a home gym.
Specs sheet
Weight capacity | 1500 |
Overall length | 77 |
Loadable sleeve length | 17 |
Shaft finish | Powder coat |
Sleeve finish | Zinc |
4. Runner-up value hex bar (and best from Rogue) – Rogue TB-2
Rogue TB-2 is THE trap-bar choice for the serious lifter because it’s wider and more rugged (thicker steel profile).
Quality (33%)
Versatility (15%)
Reputation & reviews (12%)
Value for money (40%)
Main praises – what I like
- I’m a fan of the powder coat – based on experience(s), Rogue’s stuff is more resistant than your classic powder coat. It also looks slick and clean.
- If you’re a bigger guy, I love this width for you – I can’t stress this enough, if you’re going for a closed hex bar, smaller cages will feel claustrophobic at best and unusable at worst.
A case in point is the CAP hex (previous pick), which measures just over 24 inches back-to-front. For anyone over 200 lbs, that’s gonna feel small.
Rogue TB-2 is 4 inches wider, which means you can maintain proper form without worrying about your shins.
I describe that with a “WHD ratio”…more on that in a minute… - This is my favorite knurl on a hex bar – it’s deep but won’t cut your palms. Most importantly, it never feels slippery…chalk or not.
Main grievances – what could be better
- I have no grievances – I’d have to split hairs to find some.
Pros
- Premium materials and finish – pretty much any bar from Rogue just feels better in hand than 90% of others.
- High weight capacity – you can confidently load it up to 1000 lbs.
- Long and rackable – adds versatility to your workout. You can use it for rack pulls, pull-ups, overhead presses…)
- Extra-long sleeves (16 inches) – easier to pack on the weight if you’re using bumper plates.
- Good knurling not dulled by the coating – will give you a solid grip and great tactile feedback.
- Generous cage sizing – allows you to get into a better/stronger starting position and lift more freely.
Cons
- Powder coat on the sleeves – likely to chip over time.
Rogue TB-2 is the best trap bar for those looking for a classic unit that can handle abuse and dust it off.
Compared to cheaper traps, it’s biomechanically better. In non-dork terms, it feels more natural to use, especially for bigger guys.
Take the REP Trap bar, for example.
The handles are further apart but the cage is narrower. In my experience, guys who’ll be OK with the extra width will be too big for the cage.
For most people, the distance between the handles of a closed trap bar should be less than the cage width.
I call that WHD ratio
WHD stands for Width to Handle Distance.
For husky guys, I prefer trap bars with a WHD ratio in the 1.1-1.2 range. Over the years, I found that to be the sweet spot for 8 out 10 serious lifters.
To be specific…
On the Rogue TB-2, the ratio is 1.14 (width of 28.5 “ divided by handle distance, which is 25).
REP Classic Trap has a WHD ratio of 0.9, while Titan Rackable Hex falls at 1.295.
Both fall out of the “sweet” range.
For big guys, the former might feel crowded and the latter might have an uncomfortably close grip.
TB-2 improved on what was already a solid trap bar (Tb-1) by adding raised handles. The TB-1 is approved for use in the US Army Combat Fitness Test, which speaks volumes.
The one thing that stands out about the Rogue trap bar is the knurling. Although Rogue doesn’t explicitly say it, it’s pretty much the same medium depth that people know and love in their standard Ohio bar.
Rogue’s grip just feels better in hand than that of cheaper bars (and many of the more expensive ones). There’s a reason rogue bars are so popular worldwide – this premium feel is just one of them.
Short sleeves are a common issue with trap bars, even the good ones.
Not with the TB-2.
Sixteen inches of loadable length will be more than enough even if you’re lifting heavy and use bumper plates to do it.
The part that I don’t get is the powder coat on the sleeves.
Not all powder coats are created equal, and Rogue’s is arguably the best one. I’ll give them that. And it looks awesome, too.
Still, it doesn’t belong on a surface meant to take the wear and tear of packing on plates.
Specs sheet
Weight capacity | 1000 |
Overall length | 88.5 |
Loadable sleeve length | 16 |
Shaft finish | Powder coat |
Sleeve finish | Powder coat |
5. Titan Rackable V3 – alternative value pick among rackable hexes
Titan’s rackable hex is basically a cheaper version of the Rogue TB-2 with narrower handle, but it saves you a neat 20%.
Quality (33%)
Versatility (15%)
Reputation & reviews (12%)
Value for money (40%)
Main praises – what I like
- The handle distance is ideal for guys and gals under 5’9”.
Main grievances – what could be better
- If you’re 5’9” or taller and have broad shoulders, the handles will probably feel too close.
Pros
- Value for money – costs less than most rackable trap bars on the market.
- Long sleeves (16 inches) – can accommodate more plates.
- Rackable – adds to the bar’s versatility, you can use it for shoulder presses, and rack pulls.
- Solid warranty – you can return it within one year if anything goes wrong.
Cons
- Powder-coated sleeves – likely to chip and rust over time.
- Knurling on the passive side – if you lift heavy and like an aggressive grip, you’ll probably need straps.
Titan V3 is designed to be a competitor to the Rogue TB-2, and that it is.
It’s 15-20% cheaper and has a similar geometry apart from the handle width, which is 3 inches closer.
The decision to get it (over the TB-2) will come down to 3 things:
- Your height and shoulder width – it’s not a great fit for wide frames. This should be 80% of the decision.
My advice – grab two dumbbells, and measure what distance feels natural. Squat by maintaining a distance of 22 inches between the bells, and repeat with a 25 inches distance.
Nine times out of ten, one will feel way more natural. - If you’re willing to pay extra for details and coolness – Rogue’s TB-2 is (slightly) nicer in terms of build precision and finishes. and has that Rogue coolness factor.
- Whether the warranty makes a difference for you – Titan’s bar is covered for a year and the TB-2 for a lifetime. My take – with bars like this (no moving parts), you’re not gonna claim the warranty because it won’t bend or break.
The Titan V2 is the only rackable hex bar in the top 9 that costs as much as a ‘regular’ bar.
The design and finish are what we’ve come to expect from Titan in their more recent bars – improved but still not a match for premium brands like Kabuki and Rogue.
The geometry ticks all the major boxes.
The cage is wide enough for comfortable use, with grip spacing at the sweet spot, and extra-long sleeves that can easily take on the listed 800 lbs capacity.
Even though we’ve seen improvement in how Titan finishes handle daily use, the powder still has no place on the sleeves. At this price, Zinc or hard chrome would propel this bar into the top 5.
Or is that too much to ask?
Specs sheet
Weight capacity | 800 |
Overall length | 85.5 |
Loadable sleeve length | 16 |
Shaft finish | Powder coat |
Sleeve finish | Powder coat |
To create this list, we carried out an in-depth research and selection process. We used the following criteria:
- Quality (33%)
- Versatility (15%)
- Brand reputation & reviews (12%)
- Value for money (40%)
- ROGUE TB-1 (second version) – good if you’re OK with one pair of handles.
- Eleiko Öppen Deadlift – too expensive for most home gyms. Kabuki’s Trap is the (slightly) better bar for less money.
- GYMAX Olympic – popular on Amazon, and cheap…but basic. Not a fan of the short handles, either.
- Titan Olympic Hex – similar to CAP Combo, but 2 inches narrower (front-to-back),10% costlier, and with a shorter warranty (2 vs. 1 year).
What are trap bar deadlifts good for?
Trap bar deadlifts are good for hamstrings, glutes, abductors, and quads.
Compared to the traditional straight bar deadlift, a trap bar deadlift puts less strain on your lower back, requires less technical proficiency, and results in greater power output.
A 2017 study by the University of Chichester (UK) found an instant 6% increase in deadlift loads, accelerated weight progression, and a 28% increase in power output (source).
What’s the weight of a trap bar?
The weight of a trap bar is in the 40-77 lbs range.
On the lighter side, you have your classic steel bars (typically shorter and non-rackable) like the CAP Olympic Trap Bar.
On the other end of the spectrum, you’ll see the robust, rackable bars made of solid steel, like the Kabuki Strength trap bar.
Which is better: a trap bar or a traditional deadlift bar?
It depends on the use case, but a trap bar is usually safer and better than a traditional deadlift bar.
It’s safer, easier on the spine, and allows you to lift more.
A 2011 study published in the Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research found that a trap bar is superior to a traditional bar.
The peak moments on the lumbar spine were lower, and the peak force, velocity, and power were greater (source).
Which trap bar to buy?
Buy the Bells of Steel 3.0 bar if you’re looking for top value and the Kabuki Strength trap bar if money is no object.
Why is it called a trap bar?
It’s called a trap bar because it was initially designed to train the upper trapezius (traps).
It’s the brainchild of a powerlifter Al Gerard, who patented and trademarked it (USD317641S, 1987).
The initial design of the frame wasn’t hexagonal but rhomboid – it’s only in later iterations that it ‘became’ a hex bar.
Why should I consider getting a trap bar?
You should consider getting a trap bar if you’ve reached an intermediate to advanced level of working out.
Trap bars enable you to carry out deadlifts that focus on the glutes, hamstrings, and back muscles.
By using a trap bar (such as the Bells of Steel 3.0 – our overall top pick), you considerably reduce the risk of lumbar spine injury, while ensuring good technique with relative ease (you don’t have to stress out too much to pull out the proper technique).
How to deadlift with a hex (trap) bar?
This is how to lift with a trap bar, step by step:
1. Assume a shoulder-width stance in the middle of the trap bar frame
2. Bend out the hips and knees and grab the handles.
3. Adjust your back position to be flat while looking ahead (choose a point approximately 5.5 to 6.5 ft in front of you).
4. Breathe in and begin the lifting movement as if you were driving your feet into the ground. The movement ends when your hips and knees are fully extended.
5. To make sure you’re completely upright, squeeze your glutes for a moment and maintain the position for about a second.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 while keeping your back straight.
The bottom line
I feel that the 80+ hours we spent researching, testing, and rating trap bars are well worth it because a few clear winners emerge out of the quagmire.
For most people, I’d recommend the Bells of Steel 3.0. It’s the bar that comes dangerously close to the premium brands at half the price. It’s open-ended, solidly built, zinc-plated, and can pack on enough weight for 90% of lifters. It’s also the only bar here with rotating sleeves.
It’s not THE ABSOLUTE BEST, but it’s top value.
If you don’t like to compromise (and have the budget for it), go with the Kabuki Strength trap bar.
The dent in your budget will become a distant memory the moment you lay your eyes on this immaculate beast.
Open-ended design with a built-in jack for easy loading, adjustable grip distance, swappable handles, and a whopping 1,500 max load…it doesn’t get any better than that.
You can skip back to the top picks table here.